So She’s a Tease – Does it really Matterhorn?

Having hiked in the white mountains, I felt woefully unprepared for a hike rated as  medium difficulty. But then I realized that here, medium difficulty means more than 45 minutes between cafes.  Cotton office slacks, cotton denim shirt, sneaks.  No gloves, warm hat, rain suit, or even a plastic bag for my camera.  Yes, I am prepared to tackle one of the most difficult climbs in the world.

Of course, I am not climbing, just walking.   And if I get tired, there is a gondola or a train within an hours walk of anywhere I might possibly go.   Or, more importantly, a Cafe.

Every year we try to do a memorial hike for Irene on her birthday.    Since I was in Europe, I was going to have to plan one on my own.   When Irene and I were here in 2015, the one thing she regretted was not seeing the entire Matterhorn mountain.   So…. I was determined to hike around the Matterhorn (no, I am not crazy enough to actually try climbing the Matterhorn) and get a photo of the entire mountain during the hike.   For this I was going to have to start fairly early, as the mountain tends to be cloudy later in the day.   For that, I was going to have to stay in Zermatt, Switzerland.

Zermatt is a car free town.   Motorcycle free as well.   OK, it is usually a motorcycle free town.   In 2015 we did not see the sign, and kept riding up the road until we got to the town, and since the barricades were moved, we rode into town.   Someone quickly corrected our error and we went outside the barricades and parked in a parking garage.   Since we could find no place to pay, we asked around.   When we found someone who figured out what we were asking, they looked at us in horror as if we were criminals.   This is Switzerland after all, and there were rules.   And we broke at least one of them.   That is not possible.

Anyway, we stuck around only long enough to realize that the Matterhorn was not going to reveal her secrets.   A few days later we visited the southern/Italian side.   Same thing.   The lower two thirds of the mountain were clear in bright sunlight, but, like a Fan Dancer, the peak was hidden.

So … I got to Zermatt.   The correct way, by train.   The bike was parked safely, hopefully, in a parking garage in Tasch, the last town you can drive to.

Ms. Matt was visible from my room, well, at least the important top third.   Well, it would have been if it had been clear.   The bottom two thirds were bright, but the top was not completely visible.

The next morning, she was visible.

At 6:30 am she wasn’t visible.

 

At 6:40 am she was, from the room.   Then she wasn’t when I got downstairs with my good camera.

And then she was when all I had was my phone camera.

And then she was again, almost completely, but this was before the hike.   Remember, the goal was to get a photo ON THE HIKE.   

On the way to the first cable car, I saw this sign.  I took it as a sign.   (pun intended)

 

So I hiked.   The Five Lakes Hike ( I would call them ponds) is supposed to have great views of the Matterhorn from what the Swiss call her good side.   Look at a package of Toblerone Candy if you want to understand.    It is a good hike for Matterhorn views.   I started by taking the first cable car of the day that went close enough to where I wanted to start my hike.

Nope, top still hidden

One of the 5 “lakes” that were supposed to have Mirror Images of Ms. Matt.  Not today.

None of the other 5 lakes had a mirror image today, but the hike had stunning views of the area around the Matterhorn, and the hiking was easy.   The first cafe was closed though.  But it was only 8:30 am and I had had enough coffee so no harm done.

Later on, still no points, but if you look closely, you will see two black specks.

That would be the military practicing.    They look pretty tiny against this massive mountain.

A bit later, the sky turned blue near the mountain, and it looked like it was going to reveal everything, then the fans covered up the interesting bits and the moment was gone.

Even when closed the cafes offer great views.

I really think Irene was messing with me.   See that blue sky to the left, a minute ago it was at the mountain, but somehow the clouds never left.

Yes, that trail is on the edge of oblivion.

And then it goes off into oblivion.  Good thing hikers don’t stare into their phones when they walk.

A little excursion for a view of a nice glacier.

And another fake out.   What a tease.

This lake offered a mirror image of the same bottom two thirds of the mountain I have been looking at all morning.

But at least people are having fun.   The updrafts in the area mean that a paraglider can take off and head UP for quite a ways, basically flying for as long as they want.  I saw some tandem, and thought that it would be fun to try.   Then I came to my senses.

And another fake out.   I thought for sure this time the blue skies would reveal all.

And then I came around a turn.   I was sure this time was it.  Almost.

So I waited.   And waited.   And waited.

And I am calling this a win.  In the pictures the peak looks hidden, but in real life, it was clear as day.   Mission complete.

But the day was not done yet.  There was still a train to catch to get to the top, for what was supposed to be a “Nice View”.    Ummmmmmm WOW!!!   I really don’t know how to describe it.   Pictures don’t do it justice.  Calling this a nice view is like calling the Mona Lisa a small painting of a woman.   Well, OK, bad example.   But really if you were in the area, and only had a limited time, I would go here, and somehow lose my return ticket so I had an excuse for not getting back in time.  Or ever..   There are glaciers, mountains, valleys, snow, ice, just, well, you really need to come here to see for yourself.   This was the Gornergrat stop.   Really, no words.  

Glaciers.   Lots and big.

 

Here is a panoramic video, just to try to give you an idea.

https://whereisbobl.smugmug.com/Motorcycle-Travel/2018-07-Europe-by-Motorcycle/ALL/2018-07-VIDEO/i-GBffR7C/A

And then the hike ends.  Well, no, you still should hike down.  That was my original intent.   No, not the whole way down, just to a lower train stop.   Hiking all the way down would be uncivilized

But at the top, there is a view of our favorite Tease.  Pasties and all.

While at Gornergrat having my celebratory beer, I heard someone speaking English.   I was thinking, “I know that voice from somewhere”   Then I was thinking “I heard that story before”.   I turned and realized it was one of the three guys I met two weeks earlier. When I was in Heidelberg, there were three guys from northern California that were taking a trip.   Two on rented BMW’s and on on a vintage BMW.   While they were riding, Richard’s vintage BMW had clutch troubles.   He went to Zurich to get the bike fixed, and the other two continued on once Richard was safe.   The other two where at the next table.    A chance meeting of people on different paths.

We were all waiting for Ms. Matt to reveal her secrets.   We were patient.   Beers and Cognac helped with our patience.   Kinda killed the idea of a walk down though.

Richard’s BMW before it had clutch issues.

 

More glaciers.

And The Tease pulled the fan back for a peak, almost. (see what I did there)

I am calling this a success.  Although I did not see the mountain with no clouds, the clouds parted long enough to consider the peak clear.   I think Irene would be happy.

This town of Zurmatt sucks.   Of course, any town of more than 100 people tends to suck in my book.   Really, it is not a bad town for a tourist town, plenty of outdoor activities for sane people.   Plenty of shops for the rest.   Lots of places for people, sane and not, to drink.   Food and drink is expensive by most US standards, but when you factor in that the prices shown are with all tax, and tips are not really expected, all is good.   At this time of year hotels are not bad.   $100 for a single is what I would call reasonable.   Try to find that in a place with this kind of view in the US.   As I type this, the view from my hotel room is this, with the peak almost showing itself, then clouding over,  Stunning.:

And then she said good night.     Good Night Irene.    Happy Birthday.

 

 

 

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And a few more glaciers and peeks at almost peaks.

And of course, there are lots of pics on my smugmug site.  LOTS!  Because I don’t know where the delete key is.